We have a saying in German: Good things take time. So please meet Carina, our new series blogger on how to build a faster road bike. Carina is a former national level crosscountry and biathlon athlete who we met while looking deeper into optimizing Rolling Resistance in Mountainbike and Cyclocross Races. Mainly home on her MTB now she was not easily convinced that we could support making people faster. So what better to do than to make her our new blogger and let her experience the changes. This series is supported by Cantu Wheels and Ryzon. Without further ado, we’ll hand over to Carina.
First I would like to thank you for reading and following my series since I see a lot of benefit and easy hacks for everyone out there. Sceptical is a little over exaggerated, I just had some hard time seeing how this could work out so easily. Through my sports career background I surely know what the Aerotune Team was talking about so I tried to have a critical look at this. But it surely worked for me. I will try to keep my following posts shorter in the future without giving so much introduction.
Today I wanted to show you the results of my first test by testing three different positions on my handlebars, using the upper handlebar grip, the hoods on the STI Lever and the drops. I kept my elbows completely straight in this first series of tests. My results were quite remarkable. For the calculations I used the actual route of this year’s Tour de France Stage 5. I saved almost two minutes between the upper handlebar grip and the hoods, which is not all that much but still a saving of 5 Watts at my speed. Moving from the hoods to the drop ends resulted in a bigger jump giving me more than 8 minutes on the already gained two minutes, a saving of an additional 21 Watts. Just by changing my position.
If you would like to see the pictures from my tests and more detailed data, please follow the link to my aeroDATA profile and follow my tests there.
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